Northern Khmer Spirit Music in Thailand

Kantrum boran, the traditional music of Northern Khmer people, is found in the lower north-eastern Thai provinces of Surin, Sri Saket and Buriram. Sadly, the genocidal Khmer Rouge wiped out much of the music in Cambodia but just over the border in Thailand the music continued (although it’s even hard to find there).

This set of field recordings by the duo Apichat Pakwan (Olivier Schreuder and Angkanang Pimwankum) was made in Dongman Village in Surin in 2018 and features a traditional kantrum boran ensemble playing a set of songs the performers chose themselves. The music in the village is performed for rituals like weddings and funerals but also for healing the sick through spirit mediums, and village celebrations. The album opens with ‘Serehr Prasehr’, played at the beginning of every performance – its slow, lament-like chants and rhythms sing praise to honour past teachers and call out to the spirits. And throughout this fascinating collection is the signature sound of the Khmer fiddle or tro, which accompanies the vocals in a similar way to the Laotian khaen in molam music. It’s catchy and mesmerising music, with vibrating vocals, fiddles, drums and temple cymbals all working in harmony, especially on celebratory songs like ‘Phkarlan’ and ‘Kanjan Jej’.