Turkey: The Ceremony of the Bektashi Djem

Many visitors to Turkey will have witnessed the ritual of the Mevlevi ‘Whirling Dervishes,’ either in a performance for tourists or in its more spiritual form. But few are aware of the other Turkish Sufis, the Alevis – although they are far greater in number. An Alevi gathering – known as a djem or semah – includes singing, dancing and music played on the saz (lute), which is considered a sacred instrument. While the Mevlevi were a rather elite group with connections to the Ottoman court, the Alevi came from the poorer rural districts of Anatolia and used folk music in their ceremonies. The Alevi involve men and women equally in rituals, which is very unusual in the Islamic world.

The Bektashi are an Alevi sect, who are followers of the saint Hajji Bektash. These recordings come from a ceremony at a shrine in the village of Tekke Köyü. After opening prayers, the first song, by Shah Ismail, is in honour of the Twelve Imams. It’s a slow, stately piece, although the many voices rather drown out the saz playing. Then food is served and individual singers sing solo, accompanying themselves on the saz, with Hüseyin Dede performing a poem by Abdal Musa. The semah ends with poems sung by the group and a rather sedate dance. While it’s good to have recordings of these things, you really need to be there to properly get it.